How to shift gears effectively

Re: tip #1, that would drive me crazy. I hate the complete absence of resistance on a low gear. I bike in the same gear (3 and 5) at all times, including hills. The only time it's a bit of a problem is starting up but it only takes a few seconds to get up to speed so it's not worth the trouble of changing gears just for that. I think the last time I changed gears was a few months ago when I had the flu and even the flat stretches were feeling like hills.

Annie

I just had my miele converted into a fixed gear, no more shifting gears for me EVER again.
(Fixed gear for those who don't know is a single gear bike that you can pedal forward or backward. )

I spent the money on the conversion because as much fun switching gears can be is when they break.... they break hard, not to mention I have insane amounts of stopping power now.

Reliability>Efficiency in the perspective of a bike courier.

(And toe-clips while not for everyone are freaking awesome.)

My Pashley has a five-speed internal hub gear. It is simple to use, and I don't have to be pedalling, so can shift when stopped. Internal hub also means low maintenance.

I like my bike.

Internal Hub Gear:

Advantages

* Because the mechanism is sealed within the hub and bathed in lubricant it is not exposed to dirt or weather. Consequently, hub gears need less maintenance than derailleur gears, and are more reliable, making them suitable for utility bicycles.
* Internal hub gears are not susceptible to impact damage in use or when the bicycle is being shipped.
* The gear can be shifted when the bike is stationary; derailleurs need the chain to be moving, which takes some trouble if the bike has stopped while in a high gear.
* Shifting is smoother than in external rear derailleurs.
* As the chain does not move sideways, it can be covered with a chain guard or even fully enclosed, protecting the rider's clothing from grease and damage, useful for utility cycling. A fully encased chain will maintain clean lubrication and last much longer than if exposed.
* The rear wheel spokes are symmetric on both sides of the bike. Symmetric spokes more evenly distribute load across the rear wheel and are an advantage where wheel loadings are high as in utility or touring bicycles.
* Hub gears have a single range of gears without overlap; for example a 14-speed hub gear has a high-to-low range of about 5 to 1, while a 24-speed derailleur system has 3 overlapping ranges with about the same total range but only some 16 to 19 distinct gears and a more complicated gear-shifting pattern.


Disadvantages

* Hub gears offering a wide range of ratios are very expensive, costing more than a frame and fork of reasonable quality.
* Some, especially those with a high number of speeds, are less efficient than derailleur systems, although derailleurs become less efficient when dirty and worn. A simple 3-speed hub when run-in and properly lubricated can match or exceed derailleur efficiency, benefiting from the lack of the derailleur's jockey wheels and perfect chainline.
* They are heavier than a derailleur system, also concentrating the weight towards the rear of the bicycle. The greater unsprung weight is also disadvantageous for a full suspension bicycle.
* They are considerably more difficult to repair than derailleur gears, where every component is accessible. Spares availability can, however, be very good as the difficulty of rebuilding the rear wheel, and the cost of a new hub, can make repair rather than replacement an attractive option.
* With 3 or 5-speed hubs there is usually quite a big jump from one gear to the next. Sturmey-Archer once made medium- and close-ratio 3 and 4 speed gears for racing, but these have been out of production since the 1960s.


Just thought i'd give a pro's and con's list as I didn't know much about internal hub gearing and I figured most other people didnt either.

The Pros / Cons was off wikipedia. Nothing fancy.

A mechanic friend says he finds the 3-speed hubs still the best - reliable and sturdy. The newer 7speed and up hubs have axles that are too small. You can double check his claim - maybe you won't have any problems with them.

That matches up perfectly with the point I posted earlier so sounds good to me.

Here it is below:

* Some, especially those with a high number of speeds, are less efficient than derailleur systems, although derailleurs become less efficient when dirty and worn. A simple 3-speed hub when run-in and properly lubricated can match or exceed derailleur efficiency, benefiting from the lack of the derailleur's jockey wheels and perfect chainline.

The first time I ever rode a bike with rapid fire trigger shifters, it was a revelation. I grew up with those cheesy mountain bike shifters which were controlled by a lever; these eventually evolved into grip-shifters which are total shite IMO. Now it's 2009 and rapid-fire shifters are on the scene, and they are a pleasure - they're responsive, easy to use and very low maintenance.

The most useful tip in the whole list was the one which tells you to anticipate your shifting needs ahead of time. Downshifting when you're already on the steep uphill grade ain't gonna help ya - you need to have downshifted while still on level terrain.

Sounds like common sense but I hear gear-crunching coming from even the most seasoned cyclists.

WOO CRITICAL MASS TOMORROW!